The Alsace Region of France was a favorite place of ours when we lived in Belgium. It was only a five-hour drive from our home. We last visited in 2011, right before we moved to Singapore. It was so nice to go back.
This time we shared our experience with my sister-in-law Tammy!
Santa is called Père Noël, or Father Christmas, in France. Father Christmas originally wore a white gown; and the modern Santa with the red outfit came about from Coca Cola ads of the 60's. Merry Christmas! = Joyeux Noël !
When we visit the Alsace region, we always stay at our favorite B&B in Europe, Ambiance Jardin. We have stayed here six times, including a trip with D's parents. The owners are now our friends. If you visit this area you MUST stay here! Pierrette makes the sweetest breakfasts. We were there five nights and each morning our table was decorated in a different theme.
The Alsace region has fantastic gastronomy and world famous wines, charming towns and villages, and wonderful hospitality. This region is in the very eastern side of France in a valley along the Rhine River – a river that separates France and Germany. On the other side of the river is Baden, Germany. Alsace’s capitol city is Strasbourg and is said to have France’s oldest Christmas market, established in 1570. It is known as the "Capitale de Noel" (the Capital of Christmas). This whole region has some of the most spectacular Christmas Markets (Christkindelsmarik) in Europe.
Our favorite part of the markets? Flammenkeuche!! Depending on the region, this dish can be called Tarte Flambe in French, (which translates as "pie baked in the flames.") or Flammenkeuche in German (which means "flame cake"). It is a pizza-like dish with sour cream, bacon, and onions and it is actually baked outside in an oven or on the flames. Let's just say… to die for!!!
Another favorite market treat… Gluhwein or vin chaud …. it's hot-spiced wine. You can get it in the red or white version. Ohhhhh so good when you are walking around the cold market. Each village has their own special cup or mug. You pay a deposit and continue to fill up the cup. In the end – you can keep the cup as a souvenir or return it for your deposit. Of course we kept ours.
Other market favorites
…. Choucroute Garnie (sausage and sauerkraut).
… bacon, potatoes, cheese, and cream
and sweets!!
We enjoyed a wine and food tasting called Cave de Noel. Alsace is known for its white wines; Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. Most people think of Riesling as sweet, but in Alsace they are dry. The vineyards have mineral-rich soils, which add acidity to the juice and overpowers the sweetness.
This area also produces a lot of organic wines. Largely due to the dry, windy climate, about 15 percent of grape growers farm without chemicals, making it the largest organic wine region in France.
The vineyard we visited, Domaine Baumann-Zirgel, was an organic vineyard. We bought a few bottles to bring home.
The Christmas markets are very festive with fun activities for all ages.
You know this is a special time of year when they have rides that can only be used at Christmas. This one was adorable. The tree branches go up in the air, along with the seats.
Every year Strasbourg puts up a very tall Christmas tree at the main market. It is the largest Christmas tree in France. This year, it took them three tries to get a tree that would not crack under the decorations, costing the city 50K Euros. And if you notice this one, even it leans a bit to the side.
At Christmas time, Ribeauvillé decorates with a medieval theme. Dilly Dilly!
You can find decorations in every nook and cranny of the little village streets.
And in the windows! We love the way they decorate the windows. Looks like what Dr. Seuss had in mind when he created “Whoville” in How The Grinch Stole Christmas. Common themes this year were polar bears and mice.
If you look closely, this little bear is actually blowing bubbles.
In France, Christmas Day is considered the “First Day of Christmas” and the Twelve Days are the 25th of December to the 5th of January. It is on January 6th where gifts are opened and they eat ‘la galette des rois’ – the cake of kings.
The Cathédral of Notre-Dame
There are so many little villages in this area to visit – each more magical than the next. One of our favorites was Eguisheim.
A perfect snow!
One wish of mine for this trip was to have snow. My wish was granted! The morning we were visiting the Haut-Kœnigsbourg Castle we had the perfect snow. It made the little vineyards and the castle even more enchanting!
Brother and sister!
Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle was built in the 12th century. Its purpose was to watch over the wine and wheat routes to the North and the silver and salt routes from West to East. It was reduced to ruins during the Thirty Years' War and then abandoned. In 1899, Kaiser Wilhelm II decided to rebuild the castle and turn it into a museum. It was restored using the architecture of the middle ages.
Our two-day adventure into Germany
A castle and a Michelin Star Restaurant
Germany is just across the river so we put the car on a ferry and off we went. Thanks to the Schengen Agreement, we can cross into Germany without showing our passports.
I booked us a night at this castle along with a Michelin star dinner. It was our Christmas/Anniversary treat. And a special treat it was!
Otto I built this castle in 1272, but only the ramparts and the foundation of the keep survived. William IV of Eberstein expanded the castle in the 16th century, as did Philip III in the 17th century. At the end of the century during the Palatine War of Succession, or Nine Years’ War, Prince Leopold Wilhelm and the nuns of the Convent School of the Holy Grave found safety here. Over time, the estate came into the hands of the Margrave of Baden. In 1802, the castle was rebuilt in a neo-Gothic style. Since 2006, the castle has been open as a hotel and restaurant.
{Above photo is from their site}
The view from the castle looking back into the Murg Valley and the Black Forest.
Bernd Werner, one of Germany’s top young chefs holds a Michelin star. He creates innovative cuisine using local produce. His focus is on food that's perfectly executed. It was some of the most beautiful dishes we have eaten. Each bite was a mouthful of exotic flavors.
We started with an amuse–bouche of a fried oyster and celeriac soup.
First course – foie gras with chocolate and fig. Oh my!
Next course – caramelized pork with shrimp.
Did I mention we had wine pairings with each course? : )
Then halibut with artichokes and tomato-caper relish
A palate cleanser of sorbet and foam before the main dish.
The main dish was venison. I am not a huge fan of venison, but I have to say this dish was exceptional.
My dessert, speculoos and coffee brulee in a glass bulb. Yes the bulb was eatable – made of paper-thin sugar. A very unique dessert and really delicious.
D and Tammy opted for the chocolate dessert. Equally as decedent.
It was truly a memorable meal.
Our Day in Germany
Have you ever seen a can of sauerkraut this big?
Check out this rotating grill.
These tools are actually handcrafted from chocolate.
We bought a few tools for D's dad for Christmas.
Here is the chocolate version of the wrench compared to a real one! An amazing amount of detail.
Champagne Region of Reims
It was fun pretending we lived in a Chateau. There are only two rooms so we were the only guests. The family lives here as well. It was in a very small village outside of Reims and luckily there was a fantastic restaurant just around the corner. My dish was duck with a pumpkin sauce served in the pumpkin shell. Two of my very favorite foods.
Look closely at the trees; they are made of wine bottles. It is my goal to drink enough wine this year to make a wine bottle tree next December! Looks like there are around 65 on each side, so 260 bottles. That is almost a bottle every day! Okay, I am probably going to need some help.
And last but not least is a very special story we have from this trip. Over the years, I have met many people from my blog. Most of them are on-line friendships, but many I have had the wonderful opportunity to meet in person.
Meet Odile and her daughters Kim and Thanh Le.
Odile lives in Reims, France. She and I have been writing back and forth for many years. We have a common bond of photography and all things vintage! Especially papers and books. We have even sent each other little gifts through the mail. As soon as I knew we were going to be in Reims, I sent her a message to meet up for a coffee. But being the lovely person she is, Odile invited us to her home for lunch. Words cannot describe how special this get-together was for me.
The lunch was wonderful! To us, it felt like a very local french. We started with a bottle of champagne and foie gras. For lunch we had Duck confit parmentier – a baked duck dish. Similar to our shepherd's pie, but with duck. and much tastier! And we had a fabulous cheese plate. Why can't we have cheese like this in the US? As stuffed as we were, we finished with a frozen dessert. Just perfect!!
The three of them could not have been any more gracious, hospitable, friendly, and kind. It was as if we were family that had not seen each other in years. Not only did they spend their entire day with us, but they showered us with gifts. After lunch, we had grand tour of Reims. It is such a beautiful city and really made me miss living in Europe.
We arrived at noon and left at 6! Thank you Odile, Kim and Thanh Le for the special memories you left with us.
Note: D was with us, but was taking the photos and why he does not appear in any!
Happy 29th anniversary to my Poo-Pie!
The XtraSuitcase 
